Harlan Estate 1994 and Bond Estate Melbury 2002

 I've often wondered, if I was genuinely rich, or even just wealthy, how much I'd pay for a bottle of wine.

I can't of course answer that. I'm not rich, or wealthy, and cost is subjective depending on what proportion of your holdings that cost represents.

Wine, like art I suppose, plays with money in unusual ways. Zeros can be added that don't make much difference to some people.

The value is as much in buying the rarity as it is in how it tastes and the institutions, individuals or organisations you support by paying whatever it costs.

I was lucky enough to try both the wines on the left recently, over a dinner with some folks from Harlan Estate and Bond Estate.

They were charming company, and it was fascinating hearing how both Harlan and Bond Estate got started.

There's a great mini-history-and-personal-essay from the Harlan proprietor on this page. Well worth a read.

And the wine? I tried a whole variety of wines from the estates over the course of the evening.

It was my first experience of the high-end Napa wines.

My favourites were the two eldest, in keeping with my love for aged left bank Bordeaux wines of course.

The 1994 Harlan was the stand-out of the two. It's hard to get and I'm not even going to mention the cost. I will say that for the same money I could buy an entire case of superb aged Bordeaux.

Does that mean this wine is not worth what it costs to drink? No, not at all. Great wine like this, with an amazing story behind it, in great company, is worth whatever you want it to be.

Would I buy this wine myself, being who I am and with my tastes? Right now, no.

But if I was a wealthy fan of California reds, I'd feel it would be my duty to support the immense effort and artistry that goes into making great wines such as Harlan and Bond.

Plus, it drinks beautifully. Taking the financials out of it, I can now see what all the fuss is about with regard to the top Napa reds.